9/17/10

Derry

After all the running around we did at Portrush and the Giants Causeway, we drove 20 minutes west to Derry. Being a big history enthusiast, I was more excited for this portion of the trip than the Giants Causeway (which was quite spectacular).




We arrived around dinner time, and while my parents took a nap Alisa and I headed out for a walk. We decided to walk around the old walls of Derry, which still form a complete wall today. The walls were built in just six years in the early 1600s. When they were built they were up to 50 feet high. The walls also have over twenty of the original cannons on them.

Free Derry Corner
The next morning we were up early and we went out for a walking tour of the city. Although it rained non-stop during the tour, I enjoyed it because the tour was so informative. Being too young to really remember the troubles first-hand, I only had a faint idea of the magnitude of the conflict in Northern Ireland.

While most people see the conflict as a religious one, that is not really the case. It is true that it is Catholics fighting Protestants and vice versa.

Several hundred years ago, as England was dominating the less advanced civilization of the time, the King made the decision to conquer Ireland. Because Ireland was mostly a clan-based society, this was not difficult. English settlers then moved to Ireland. As it so happens, the only successful English settlements were in Ulster County, which became Northern Ireland after the partition. The English settlers were all Protestant, and the native Irish were Catholic. What this conflict boils down to is not whether you are Protestant or Catholic, but whether you are a Nationalist (prefer Ireland as one nation) or a Unionist (prefer union with England).

Although national identity is the root of the conflict, there has been too much killing, too many families torn apart and too much discrimination to be solved quickly. Undoubtedly there is blame on both sides, and because the hatred is so deep-seated it will take several generations before any real progress is made.


The west bank is 97% Nationalist and 3% Unionist. The siege mentality still exists, despite the cease-fire being adopted in 1998.
Having given a (relatively) brief overview of the conflict, I'd like to give a little background on Derry. The walled portion of the city sits on top of a hill that was formerly an island. The River Foyle eventually shifted it's path, connecting the city with the mainland. The area where the river used to run became a boggy mess, known as the bogside. These undesirable mud flats was given to the Catholics, who built their houses below the city in the bog.

The view of the bogside from the city walls. If you enlarge the picture you can see some murals in the foreground.
Approximately 100,000 people call Derry home, with about 75% of the residents considering themselves Catholics. While they may make up the majority of the population, for a long time the Nationalists controlled the political, economic and social arenas. For a long time the police force was strictly Protestant.
With the minority holding the power and oppressing the poorer majority, it was only a matter of time until chaos broke out. The event that would bring this conflict to the eyes of the world and be immortalized by one of the biggest rock bands of all time happened in January of 1972.

Spurred on by the American Civil Rights Movement, approximately 20,000 Catholics gathered in Derry to march in protest against internment (imprisonment of Catholics without trial or charges being levied) and job/housing discrimination against Catholics. The Protestant government deemed this march to be illegal, and the British paratroopers were brought in. This was the most elite, best-trained fighting force in the British military.

As the protesters were marching in the bogside, the British soldiers panicked. Later claiming they were sniped at by a single shooter, the soldiers opened fire. By the end of the firing 14 people lay dead and 14 were maimed for life. Of the 14 who were killed, seven were teenagers. Worse yet, all of them were unarmed and at least five of them were shot from behind. One person, shot in the back of the head, was waving a white hankerchief. Forensic tests after the incident proved that nobody who was killed was armed.

A inquiry was quickly set up by the British government after the incident. This inquiry was deemed to be a whitewash by most everybody who was not British. Not until 1998 did the case get reopened. In June of this year, the last inquiry was finalized. It proved that the soldiers were not fired upon and that none of the deceased had weapons.

In 1998 a leap in the quest for peace was made when the two sides signed the Good Friday Agreement. While technically only a ceasefire, it is still a step in the right direction.

Throughout Northern Ireland one of the most popular forms of expression are large murals. The murals in Derry, all located in the bogside, are quite famous. Below are three of what we think are the most powerful ones.

The Petrol Bomber: Depicting the Battle of the Bogside in 1969, three day riots that pitted bogside residents against Protestant police.

The Saturday Matinee: Named this because riots were commonplace, it shows a young man about to take on an armored vehicle with a shield and a stone.

Bloody Sunday: Originally a photograph, depicts Father Daly waving a bloodstained hankerchief while a mortally wounded man is carried from the scene. The Civil Rights banner at the soldiers feet became bloodstained when it was used to cover the body of one of those killed.

9/16/10

Portrush & The Giants Causway

On the cliffs above the Giants Causeway
So begins the long weekend trip w/ Brayden's parents to Northern Ireland! Mr & Mrs B (Ted & Sheila) arrived Friday afternoon and are in town for 17 days! good for them right! I was able to get Monday off from work so the 4 us planned at trip up to the North. Their agenda is to then tour around the rest of Ireland and then come back to see us and Dublin at the end. It looks like we might also meet up this wknd for a bball tourney in Limmerick but we shall see.

Anyways so Friday after work we pack into a rental car and head off to Portrush, beginning an interesting driving experience for 2 reasons. One being the fact that Ted is 6'5" and Brayden is 6'11" thus we are all crammed to smigens in the European style car. The other being the fact that driving in Ireland is quite tricky due to the very narrow roads and left-side driving (this will play in later...). We stopped for din on the way and got up there to our lil B&B on the ocean around 11pm.


This used to stretch all the way to Scotland!
Saturday was a very eventful day! Portrush is adorable and has a great deal to offer, but the main attraction is the beautiful Antrim Coast which is home to the Giant's Causeway. The GC is a bunch of basalt columns that are shaped like hexagons and form an ancient link from the coastline, under the ocean, which used to connect like a bridge to Scotland! There is a cool old legend about how it came to be. I think it's like there was a giant warrior named Finn MacCool who built the bridge to fight his giant counterpart in Scotland for whom he was fighting over a girl-giant. Drama. Anyways it's a World Heritage Site and quite impressive! We were lucky enough to have bright blue skies and sunshine while hiking around the GC coast, until... the weather changed as it always does in Ireland... and we got caught in torrential downpour! Like torrential. Like we jumped in the ocean in our clothes wet. So we got in the car and proceeded back to the B&B to change clothes. Now recall the narrow roads and tricky driving... Ted accidentally brushes a curb on the way home. No big deal, I do it all the time. But we get a flat! It was actually pretty funny and luckily the people at the B&B helped us out since it was Saturday and no tire stores were open. Good Irish people.

So a bit later shall we say decided to try our luck over at the Bushmills Distillery. Most people think of Jameson as the famous Irish Whiskey (that distillery is literally like 3 blocks from our apt in Dublin) but Bushmills is the other famous beverage of the Irish. I wasn't too too overly excited about the tour but it ended up being really cool! I don't know how the Irish came up with such a complicated process but I'm guessing lots of taste testing along the way. Their logo is "making Irish Whiskey legally since 1608."


Dunluce Castle
Next we stopped at the awesome old ruins of a castle on a cliff, Dunluce Castle. It was really cool and the history there is that the owners finally decided to move out after the kitchen fell off into the ocean during a dinner party one night. Brayden took a particular liking to the 'Wee Cottage' next to the castle. One of the many things we quickly learned in Northern Ireland is their affinity for the word "wee" meaning little. For example, Brayden is not wee.

Wee!
Later we went to dinner at this really good (and trendy!) restaurant called 'The Bistro' in the harbour. I guess I did forget that it was Saturday night but I was quite surprised at how done up all the locals were. I didn't let my touristy jeans/sneakers/fleece caught-in-the-rain hair look interfere with the great food and company. Anyways it was a very exciting and eventful day.


After passing over the rope bridge.
Sunday we got an early start and headed over the famous Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. The weather turned stormy and it was very windy and ominous. Maybe it was the weather, not the shear drop below the narrow bridge, but a certain 7-footer was scared to dealth of the little rope bridge. Notice in the picture how I stop and pose for a pic while Mr. "My-center-of-gravity-is- a-lot-higher-than-yours" runs awkwardly to the other side (you can click the photo for further enhancement)... ok I guess the handrails were a bit low for him, but still!

Alisa bravely posing while Brayden scurries across!

Next we headed over to a wee pitch and putt (3 par) golf course. It was a great and really inexpensive course next to the beach, just lovely! While I have very minimal golf experience we all proved to be less than Irish expert golfers. There may have been two or three pars (1 for me!) but lets just say we all golfed about as well Mr. B drives (joke!). Then we had a nice lunch by the beach and headed over to Derry...

Weed-whacking or golfing? You decide.

9/7/10

Roommate gone

The other American who came over to do the same program as me is now gone. He went crazy, long story short there aren't a lot of people sad to see him go. Because he left Alisa and I now have an open room. If DBS fills the basketball scholarship then somebody will use it, if not we'll have a free room all year. DBS will undoubtedly attempt to fill the spot, and they likely will. But here's hoping they don't!

9/2/10

Address Again*

Today I finally got our address correct. I've asked the lady who runs the property for the address, and she gave me the incorrect address previously. Today she figured out the correct address, which is great....except for all the mail that I was supposed to get is still missing. Anywho....Here is the correct address:

Brayden (Or Alisa)
Block B - Apartment 3
Arbour Hill
Dublin 7
Ireland